At the heart of Oran, where history and passion converge, the arena stands as a silent witness to a bygone era. Its stone walls once echoed with the roar of a fiery crowd, a mix of cheers and jeers. It is a journey back in time to an era when bullfighting ruled, thrilling the crowds and shaping the town’s identity.
More than just a building, these arenas embody a place steeped in history, ready to reveal its secrets throughout this article.
Algeria, a crossroads of civilizations, marked by numerous foreign dominations,
Among them, the Spanish presence has left indelible marks on its heritage. This heritage is particularly apparent in Oran, a Mediterranean fortress, where the Spanish colonists left a deep imprint on local architecture and customs during their presence, which lasted almost two centuries. To immerse yourself in this era and feel its atmosphere, just look up at the fort of Santa Cruz, which protects the whole city, or lose yourself in the narrow streets of the Sidi El Houari district, a truly open-air museum where the weight
of time can be felt in the facades of houses and old buildings. However, the most remarkable expression of this period can be found in the arenas of Oran.”
Let me know if you’d like further refinements! A living symbol of the Spanish passion for bullfighting, it was built specifically for the pleasure and entertainment of the native and colonial population, evoking the effervescence of the bullfights that once animated this city.
An Architectural Heritage of the 20th Century
The Oran arena, one of the few on the African continent, boasts an impressive circular structure measuring 4,800 m² and a diameter of 210 metres, for up to 10,000 spectators. Designed by architectural engineer E.-R. Garlandier and carried out by the contractor A. Andreoli, in 1890, Rebuilt after a fire in 1908 using stone, lime, iron, and wood, these arenas are located in the southwest of the city, in the district of the former Place d’Eckmühl. They stand as a testament to exceptional architectural craftsmanship and a rich history, captivating visitors both past and present.
The Art of Acoustics in the Arena
Thanks to their distinctive architecture, they are designed to amplify sound. Their circular shape and the materials used allow voices to resonate and spread effectively within the space, creating an immersive auditory experience for those inside. Conversely, people outside cannot clearly hear what is happening within.
This acoustic technique dates back to antiquity, developed by the Greeks and Romans who designed spaces to maximize sound resonance, notably in theaters.
Are the Eckmühl arenas the first?
Spanish racing was introduced in Oran in 1881, Marking the beginning of a bullfighting tradition in honor of the Spanish community residing in the city. The first arenas, located on Boulevard de l’Industrie, were temporary and didn’t last long. They were soon moved to Gambetta to accommodate a larger audience. In response to the growing popularity, a new arena, the Eckmühl, was built. These majestic arenas, with their clean lines and impressive capacity, have quickly become an essential gathering place for the Spanish
community consolidating Oran’s reputation as a major bullfighting center. The last bullfight in Oran was held shortly before the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in 1936. After a long period of inactivity, the arenas reopened in 1954. By the end of that same year, Oran was home to nearly half of Algeria’s Spanish community, including many political refugees. For these exiles, bullfighting was more than just entertainment—it was a vital connection to their homeland and a way to preserve their cultural identity.
Since their inauguration in 1920, the Oran arenas have hosted numerous bullfights featuring legendary matadors such as El Cordobés, Ordóñez Pepe, Miguel Mateo, José García Lupión, and the three Chicuelé brothers. Other iconic figures like Luis Miguel Dominguín and Domingo López Ortega also left their mark, making the arenas a landmark of bullfighting.
Thanks to their exceptional acoustics, a legacy of the architectural techniques mentioned earlier in this article, the Oran arenas became a prime venue for numerous cultural and sporting events. Concerts by renowned bands such as The Platters and The Holidays were held there, as well as boxing matches featuring celebrated Oran natives Hocine Khalfi and Lahouari Guedih.
Anecdote
The Oran arena is often linked to the legend that Napoleon III ordered its construction in honor of his wife, Empress Eugenie, to provide her with an entertainment venue inspired by the Spanish bullring.
The Red symbol in bullfighting
The red color is frequently associated with bullfighting, but its effect on the bull is actually a myth! The bulls are color-blind, and do not perceive colors and see only shades of black, white and gray. What stimulates them most is the matador’s movements. The “Cape” is often red, because this color symbolizes blood and accentuates the dramatic intensity of the show, amplifying the adrenalin of the spectators during the event.
After Algerian independence in 1962, bullfighting gradually disappeared from Oran’s arenas, partly due to the change in cultural and social context.
This once-popular practice has become less and less accepted, reflecting a desire to re-evaluate traditions inherited from the colonial period.
Today, following rehabilitation work, the Oran arenas serve as a venue for guided tours, allowing visitors to explore this iconic site. They are open to the public daily, from Saturday to Thursday, until 5 PM. The small rooms that once operated as bistros and bars have been repurposed to host art exhibitions, showcasing the talents of local painters and artisans.
The Oran arenas are a place where history and the present converge. They stand as a testament to the Spanish community’s desire to preserve and celebrate their traditions. These arenas were a gathering space for bullfights, which were not merely entertainment events but also opportunities for festivity and camaraderie.
By exploring this building, visitors discover not only its architectural beauty, but also the soul of Oran, a city that moves to the rhythm of its traditions. Don’t miss out on this unique experience. Come and explore these arenas and connect with the soul of Oran!
Written by Sarah Brahmi